Journey to the mountainous fairy tale

Kyrgyzstan –is the mountainous land, with high celestial mountains and blue lakes. Our land is located between Uzbek deserts, Kazakh steeps, thinly populated western China and uneasy Tadjikistan. Since olden days Kyrgyzstan was a bridge, which connected East and West via Great Silk Road. And to present days every person has opportunity to go along the high mountainous caravan routes, to cross many difficult to access passes, to see many beautiful lake, which hidden from stranger’s glance. Also you can feel clean fresh air and taste of crystal-clear mountainous water. In that rich year our small group has an excellent opportunity to organize a very nice horseback trek. Our route goes via picturesque gorges at the southern side of Issyk-Kul Lake, they are –Tamga, Chegedek, Barskaun, Dongureme, Djuuka gorges. This year our group is small, but in spite of that we are sanguine and brave to start our trip. Our participants: Martin – is the farmer from Switzerland. As he said about himself: “I don’t think you will have tourists like me, I mean farmers from Switzerland”. The main Martin’s hobby I think is traveling around the world. And after his impressions and stories about different counties, he has visited; I think he absolutely saw half of the world. He is very cheerful, active and true tourist. He never loses sense of humour and self-control. Also, I should say he is very experienced rider. Anarbek (Anton) - our stableman and experienced guide. He is very jolly and talkative person, he likes to tell us about previous tours and about his dangerous situations in the mountains. He shares with his big experience in nomad life. As for me- I’m interpreter and cook. Our trip starts from Tamga guest house. Martin has come from Karakol city, where he visited cattle Sunday market. I should say it was very interesting for it, because he is a respectable farmer, and he likes his job. After a while we will be sitting in the tent, it will be raining outside, and Martin will show me his pictures of animals and he will tell me about the average prices for cows, horses and sheep. The next day, after collecting all our equipment and private things, we’ve moved to the stable, to our horses. The day is fine and bright, and sun fondles with its rays our pale and not sunburned faces. And our trip has started. After 1, 5 hour its starts raining in Tamga gorge and at the same time we’ve stopped for lunch near the “Tamga-Tash” Stone (the monument with Tibetan inscriptions). Kyrgyz people say – rain is the good sign, only honest and godly people come with rain. Of course, the sign is ancient, but as for me, I’m sure that Kyrgyz people invented this sign to invigorate wet people. Suddenly, after lunch rain stops, and now we continue our trip. During the day we have to over cross some small rivers, but our horses are very experienced and everything is fine with us and our luggage. So, now we are in Chegedek gorge (it means “firry branch) and we move go up along streamer to the camp place. Scarcely we’ve created our tent camp it starts raining again. But it’s not an ordinary city rain, its something another. It seems, like our tent is going to break from big drops, also there is a big noise around everywhere! At first time it’s a bit frightful! But everything is fine; we are sitting at strong tent after nice dinner with cup of tea. And our horses graze near our tent and they will guard our dream during the night. Martin shows us colorful booklets dedicated to Switzerland. We feel pleasant weakness in body, yup, it was fine day. So, the second day starts early, because it is the longest day of the journey. We have to go via Chegedek gorge to the beautiful Barskaun gorge, which is famous for its waterfalls. But in the morning I woke up very early and I got surprised – two our horses disappeared. But I knew-it is ordinary situation in the mountains – horses are able to overcome more than 15 kilometers with tied legs if they want to eat more fresh grass. So, our stableman considered in which way our horses went away and after half and hour our horses were come back. And after breakfast we ready to continue our trip. During all day sun is shining so brightly and our faces are getting redder, and we aren’t tourists! We are real nomad people! Along toward evening we’ve come to the camp place near the Dongureme river. We’ve created tent camp here because tomorrow we have to over cross this mountain river. The river is not so big, the width is around 3 meters, but the stream is strong and the stones are so big and slippery. So, you see that mountain rivers are very dangerous, and there are many accidents with dismal ends. At the third day we wake up very early, because we have to cross this river as soon as possible. In the morning water-level in the river is minimal. So, after plucking up ours spirits, we crossed Dongureme River successfully. This route our horses know very well and everything was ok, but as for me I’ve taken too many impressions. After river we have to clime up to Dongureme pass. And after 3 hours we’ve got over the pass, and now we are sitting near the river and having lunch. So, now we are in Djuuka gorge, and after 2 hours we will go down the gorge to organize our tent camp near the confluence of Djuuka and Dongureme rivers. During the way we meet some cows which follow us with theirs curious glance. The gorge is very picturesque – fast rivers run down the gorge to meet with Issyk-Kul lake, there are many different kind of bushes, and there aren’t any trees because of the high altitude. So, now we’ve created tent camp, and it is starts raining! But we are sitting in the warm and dry tents and that strong rain doesn’t scare us. Next day we have one day walk to the high mountainous lakes in Djuuka gorge. In the morning, in the morning fog we’ve moved to the lakes. And after 2 hours we’ve come to the first Blue Lake. Wow! What a view! The lake is shining with interesting emerald colour! The second Green Lake is hidden in the rocks and we have to go a bit to that lake. Gradually, morning fog is disappears and we can see the second lake. What a nice mood! We want to plunge our hands and foots! But the water is very cold, and I think only very courageous people can swim there! Then, along the steep route we have to clime up to the third - Yellow Lake. Here is beauty in celestial mountains hidden from stranger’s view. All next day we are going down along Djuuka river in Djuuka gorge. At the end of the day we have to cross Djuuka river. That river is not so fast but it’s a bit deep, and there is a possibility to moisten our luggage. Our horses are snorting and lifting the legs up and after a while we’ve crossed the river and our luggage is dry. Our tent camp we’ve created at the nice meadow, which surrounded with ancient firs. The weather is wonderful – it’s not so hot and not cold. After having dinner, we’ve decided to make the camp-fire, because there is enough firewood everywhere! And now we are sitting near the fire –place, it’s become dark and only crackle of half-baked firewood and neighing of our horses break the silence. Next day we have easy descent along the Djuuka gorge. Martin’s horse – Beicy is not packed, and she goes fast and with pleasure. My horse’s name is Puzzle – he is true lover of Beicy. Puzzle is much experienced horse, but Beicy- not too much. But if we took another horse instead of Beicy, Puzzle wouldn’t go with us. It’s very funny, when sometimes Puzzle can’t see Beicy (because of the trees, maybe) and he begin to neigh very loudly. Today is very important day – we have to receive food for the next 3 days. While we are going along the gorge, I perceived that too many grey rain clouds are catching us up. But I really don’t want any rain, because at the first day got soaked to the skin. And now I’ve begun to send the clouds to China. After 3 hours we met Uncle Sasha, he has transported food for us. What a lucky – there is a lot of food in the car! After collecting all essential food for us, we’ve moved to Darchan-Chichan gorge. On the way to camp place, we’ve climbed up to the Saruu hill. What a wonderful view we can see! What a fantastic picture we can see – all Terskey Ala-Too range surrounded us with its mountainous ring. It seems, like we are on the top of the world, somewhere in the clouds, and there is Issyk-Kul lake far off. In a split second we feel inexpressible sea air, which attracted us. After enjoying the view, we continue to our route over the thick crown of the ancient firs. Crossing the fir forest – it’s rare pleasure. Because when the horse goes along the route near the fir’s branches she imagines only her body, but not rider’s body. So, you can perceive that fir’s needles were everywhere! In the hair, in the clothes, on the saddle-everywhere! So, today is the final day of our trip, morning is very cloudy. It is a very strange sensation – we fell like mountains got upset, and they don’t want to let us go away. And now we are going along the mountainous itinerary among the firs, bushes of ash berry and dog rose. More often we meet yurts of nomad people. Now we are in Chon-Djergalchak gorge – it is very beautiful place and secured zone, so here we can’t hunting and fishing. While we are coming down we feel unendurable desire to stay here for two- three days more. When we’ve come to the main road we say good bye to our horses- to Puzzle, to Beicy, to Patrik and to young pack horse without name, to our stableman: “Thank you very much for presented a fairy tale!” Our horses were real off-road cars, they helped us, and they never left us. Thank you very much! So, now we are driving to the Tamga guest house, where all modern conveniences are waiting for us!